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soundproofing a closet
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tackerman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:17 am    Post subject: soundproofing a closet Reply with quote

We're looking at a house with a finished basement and an 6 X 8 room that would be perfect for a booth. Problem is there is a radon mitigation system in the utility room and a low level hum is detectable from the blower.
Any advice from the audio pros here on a good way to deaden that room and cut the hum? Since soundproofing/deadening material is so expensive I'm wondering if I throw another thin layer of sheetrock on the walls before soundproofing if this would help.
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todd ellis
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

not an expert - but if you're going to throw up another wall - add a few more 2x4s and create an air space between, failing that ... how bad could radon REALLY be???
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tackerman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL, I was looking for a toggle switch on the blower then realized that forgetting to turn it back on might be a bit of an issue. Shocked
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Frank F
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In a last ditch effort, move the detector. Or depending upon whether the hum is electrical (i.e.: in the wires) where one could get isolation transformers and put eh detector ion a different unique circuit or a buzz from the components... you might isolate the detector from the wall (rubber mouse mat or similar product between the wall/detector coupling), build a new all with with de-coupling materials to separate and isolate the "studio room wall from other components of the house, or check the actual detector unit to see if it is faulty and replace or repair as needed.

Good luck.

Frank F
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's fan noise, build a box around it. Like a soffit so that it goes the whole length of the room. Or even build it on an angle spanning the wall and ceiling. Would even help acoustics in the room that way. You can make a door in it to get to the radon detector if you need to.
You'll want to cut some slits in the structure so the air has an escape. This idea would work whether it was electical or fan hum I would think.
You can even line the structure with some insulation like they use in the heat duct stuff...maybe even build it out of that heat duct stuff?

Hope that helps some.

I am no expert either, nor have I played one on radio or tv. I did sleep at a Holiday Inn once though...but that was years ago.
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georgethetech
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it structure or airborn noise from the fan?
Does it vibrate the wall or do you hear the rushing of the air through the vent?
They are different problems with unique solutions.
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Mike Sommer
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You say it's coming from the blower?? So is the blow in the same room or
in the attic? And because you can hear it I'll venture to guess they used
4" PVC or ABS pipe. Pictures will help a great deal here!
I will assume you have something like this:
http://www.indoor-air-health-advisor.com/radon-mitigation-system-photos.html

If the blower is in the basement, move it outside or to the attic. Then
replace the plastic pipe in the basement in the room with cast iron piping.
Plastic pipe will resonate like you would not believe.

The next trick is to build a chase wall ( this is a soffit wall that is vertical)
around the tube with inside dimensions 16X16" -24X24" would be better -
floor to ceiling. I would build it with steel stud, filling the space with 703
and cover it with 5/8" drywall, then cover that with lead sheeting and
another layer of 5/8 drywall. Caulk the top and bottom seams with Green Glue Acoustic Caulk.

That should kill any hum resonating from the tube.
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tackerman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, thanks for the advice folks!

Yes, it is in a utility room in the basement and constructed from PVC. I never realized how much noise those things make, I'm planning on going back for another look with pics.
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Ed Gambill
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would approach this problem in another manner. I would turn the fan off with a timer circuit.

I found this timer module on line http://www.cablegiant.com/Default.aspx?p_id=4&Product_id=1064&utm_campaign=GBase&utm_medium=GBase&utm_source=GBase&utm_content=1&source=googlebase

I would purchase a timer module similar to the one displayed. I would use the module to turn off the fan. At the end of a predetermined time say 15 min- 60min the timer would turn the fan back on.

A fail safe can be had by using another timer module to trigger a sounder device like a back up alarm used in autos and trucks in the event the first module fails to turn the fan on again.

Some years ago I built 20 modules to restart DVD players in a hotel installation that played traveler/visitor information. They were 555 ICs with some switching circuit.

Disclaimer: This is what I would do for myself. I do not purpose or suggest that any one employ this method with out first consulting with there electrical advisor.
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Mike Sommer
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moving the blower up or out and replacing the section of PVC pipe in the room with cast iron and rubber boot unions should kill the hum.

Building the chase wall is the next and last resort.

Turning off the blower for intermittent periods of time would greatly reduce
the system's efficiency; since it is working on the position of a continues vacuum.
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Ed Gambill
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike

I suspect you know that difference between empirical and theoretical statements. And as previously stated I do appreciate you acumen regarding sound.

This reply is not to cause an argument but to discuss respectfully the potential for other operation scenarios for a Radon Extraction System. In fact when proffering my own idea for noise abatement I had not given much thought to how intermittent operation or cessation of the fan rotation would affect the overall operation of the extraction system.

On first blush your statement on continues negative pressure in the substrate of the floor in question seems very accurate; it caused me to want to know more. My key word search was “intermittent fan radon system” and it reported this PFD http://arcas.nuclear.ntua.gr/apache2-default/erricca/erricca2/Topic_4/CS_GS/ERSD_gs_CZ_005.pdf from the NATIONAL TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY OF ATHENS Nuclear Engineering Section. I would like to know what information is available from ASHRAE (The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers) on this point as well.

Looking at page 3 of the aforesaid Hobo LaughingF, near the bottom there is a paragraph regarding system enhancement. In this case the intermittent operation of the fan in the extraction system was put forth as an enhancement to the system. As I read this statement it appears that continues negative pressure is not an absolute in the proper operation of an extraction system.

This implies that there may be the opportunity to manually discontinue the fan operation from time to time with out negatively impacting the successful operation of the system.

Granted a means to properly monitor the Radon level in the living space would be a best practice to insure that occasional disruption of the negative pressure in the substrate would not abrogate the totality of the system.

After doing a cost comparative, I might go with the interruption of the fan method. I have not yet taken the time to cost the cast iron pipe alteration or building a barrier wall. Nor am I sure that there would be an equal noise reduction compared with cutting off the fan.

Ed Gambill

PS My back ground in these matters include, commercial and residential construction, emergency tunnel ventilation fan construction-testing & maintenance (not a member of ASHRAE).



Hobo ToungeS This post is for discussion purposes only and not to be considers or construed as a basis in fact for any alteration, adjustment, or modification to any established Radon Abatement &Extraction System. Always consult a certified technician before making any change, alteration or adjustment to your Radon Abatement & Extraction System.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not a radon expert, but I've done a commercial for a radon abatement company! Really. I'm also a bit of a science nut and here's what I'm thinking on radon...

Radon is a gas that seeps up from the ground in very small quantities. The amount leaking into the atmosphere where you live is clearly not dangerous when standing, working or playing outside or they wouldn't allow you to even be there, let alone build a house. A house does however trap the gas and over a period of time it can accumulate to possibly unhealthful levels, but this is something that takes days or even weeks to reach those levels. It also takes years of exposure to see any possible health effects. Shutting off the fan for a few hours here and there seems quite logical and inexpensive. Just be sure to have a failsafe way to turn the fan back on, or remind yourself to do so, when you're through.

B
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Hart
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:30 am    Post subject: Re: soundproofing a closet Reply with quote

tackerman wrote:
Since soundproofing/deadening material is so expensive


Ahh but it's not. I have no advice to give on the radon unit but if you want to address that and modify your closet it can be done well yet relatively cheaply.

Bang for the buck 5/8 gypsum board (sheetrock) is the best material for mitigating the transmission of sound waves. Just this morning I paid $7.15 per 4ft by 8 ft sheet at Lowe's. That's down sharply from just a year ago by the way.

Granted I'm trying the green glue stuff for the first time on my latest project. Actually, a case of it is being used as a foot rest as I type, lol. But before this miracle product appeared we always used GE Silicone II. Great for sealing up gaps. Remember it can't be "sound proof" if it's not air tight. Anyway, I paid $4.49 a tube for it today. Buy it buy the case and it's cheaper.

I would put some insulation in the walls too. Now I know a lot of people say put 703 in the walls. I'm not a sound engineer but the one who advises me says buy the pink stuff at the home improvement store (unfaced if you can find it) and put it in the walls. Save the 703 for outside the walls instead of using foam products. Don't recall what I paid for insulation but I want to say it was around $10 per roll.

My point is this. It's not that expensive to modify your closet if that's what you want to do. And a 6 x 8 (how tall is it by the way?) is a good couple of weekends project.

I'm not around much anymore I know. I'm working two jobs now and getting ready to start back to school full time in January so I don't check in much but shoot me an email or pm if you want. You guys know me. I love building this stuff.

On Edit: I am oversimplifing things a bit. I'm assuming the reader can hang sheetrock (basic DIY stuff here) and take the time to get the right size drywall fasteners. You need to pay attention to your local building codes on stuff like that if you're planning on ever selling your house and for insurance reasons.

And that leaves out what to do about a door and ventilation. You spend all this time and effort making great walls but you have to have an opening to get in and out and air to breathe. And a door, well, if done wrong it can ruin the whole project. That was the weakest link in my booth back in North Carolina.

As with everything else there's the Cadillac way and the Chevy way. Plenty of reading out there on these. My point is you can build a reasonably isolated space without having to take out a 2nd mortgage if you do a little research and plan it out. Or if you make more money than I you can always say fark it and pay someone else, lol. Much easier I suppose.
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Mike Sommer
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonderful information Ed, based on your research a timer indeed would be the preferable solution.
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Living Culture
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
LOL, I was looking for a toggle switch on the blower then realized that forgetting to turn it back on might be a bit of an issue.


A handy tip from movie sound book I read. Whenever you turn anything important off, leave your car keys on/next to the switch.
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