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Would I Just Be Wasting $27
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Lee Gordon
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 1:01 pm    Post subject: Would I Just Be Wasting $27 Reply with quote

I'm still not 100% happy with the sound of my booth. There is still a little hint of hollowness, due to the combination of its square footprint and small (approx 39" x 39") size. I have two big bass traps in each of the back corners, Auralex and other acoustic foam on three walls and the ceiling, and custom ATS panels on the doors.

So I'm thinking of adding even more bass traps, this time, small ones along the junction where the ceiling meets the wall I face when I'm working. eBay has lots of choices, including several like these from China:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professional-Acoustic-Foam-8-PCS-in-Charcoal-Soundproof-Bass-trap-foam-/262008542983?hash=item3d00ed1707:g:7E4AAOSw9N1V0YIM

They ain't exactly Auralex brand, and they're kind of tiny (only about 4½" on a side) but I don't have the space for anything much bigger. So, is it worth a punt?

Another option I'm considering is ordering a custom panel from ATS 30" x 12" x 2" and hanging it at 45° down from the ceiling as a cloud above and behind my computer monitors. That would be only around $60. Possibly a better allocation of funds?
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todd ellis
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've spent more money on dumber stuff.
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Mike Harrison
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 4:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a thought, Lee: are there any hard, reflective surfaces nearer the mic (such as a desktop, etc.) that might be bouncing your voice back toward the mic? This could produce a hollow-ish sound that no amount of absorption on the walls would help. Wink
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DenaliDave
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember waking up one Saturday morning to the doorbell ringing. Groggily, I trudged to the door, my tiny dog yapping and nipping at my heels.

When I opened the door, and my eyes finally adjusted to the sunlight that was now assaulting them -- I stood there dumbfounded at what I saw before me.

On my welcome mat (it actually says GO AWAY) was a large grey rectangular brick wrapped in plastic. The 'grey surprise' measured two feet long and one foot high. I then chuckled to myself as I remembered that I had ordered a set of 4 bass traps a bit ago.

I was still shocked at the sheer size of the package. When I purchased them, I had no idea how utterly massive they were. I didn't pay any attention to the dimensions when I ordered them!

I ended up using 3M general purpose 45 spray adhesive (in the blue can) to affix them to my walls. It's my home, so I'll just have to deal with how to remove them when I sell the place.

From what I've hypothesized I might be able to use a hair dryer on a high setting to loosen the adhesive and remove the foam without damaging the drywall. After that? Mr. Clean Eraser to the rescue! I have no idea what kind of dark magic those things were created with, but they clean everything.

-dried grease on the wall behind your deep fryer? Check.
-soot from a grease fire on your ceiling? Check.
-paint from a "parking lot incident" that's rubbed off onto your car's finish? Check.

Just make sure to wear rubber gloves...

How well do they work? Hard to say. Not all foam is equal, and not all rooms have the same acoustic signature. I know for me it helped a bit. If I clap my hands now, all I hear is a muted "whomp" instead of a sharp crack. That could also be due to the over 60 sq. ft of acoustic foam on the walls, ceiling and door though.

Oh, protip: If you're going to be working with spray adhesive, open a window and COVER anything delicate or electronic.
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vkuehn
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DenaliDave wrote:

Oh, protip: If you're going to be working with spray adhesive, open a window and COVER anything delicate or electronic.


Oh, I have become much more fanatical than that when spray adhesive is used ANYWHERE in the house... even on another floor away from my studio. Microphones go into plastic bags and stuffed into boxes that are stuffed into other plastic bags and then banished to the opposite end of the house where spray adhesive will be in use. And they need to wait maybe 24 hours before being taken out of the bags and boxes. One little condensor mic with a bit of spray adhesive in the air will change your life's values. Smile

Fortunately, it was my cheap, entry-level first mic. I took it out of storage the other day, and now after five years in the dark, it may have been cured of it's "adhesive poisoning".
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Lee Gordon
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DenaliDave wrote:

How well do they work? Hard to say. Not all foam is equal, and not all rooms have the same acoustic signature. I know for me it helped a bit.


I was shocked at what a huge difference adding a pair of those humongous bass traps made in my booth. Just installing them instantly turned it from a cave to a usable booth. And I found that neither the little adhesive pads they came with or spray adhesive would hold them for any length of time, so they are now mounted with Loctite spray adhesive and a couple of drywall screws that are sunk just below the surface of the foam (and are roughly the same color), so they are pretty much invisible.

The little bass traps I'm inquiring about fall under the category of "tweaking" and should be easier to attach. And as you say, not all foam is created equal, and I guess that's my real question: is this stuff likely to have any real sound attenuating properties, or is it just some cheap stuff from China that looks like a bass trap without trapping any actual bass?
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DenaliDave
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, you can get a ballpark idea on the quality of foam by looking at it's NCR rating. Although, it's not a be-all-end-all kind of thing.

I have been slowly piecing together plans for my own custom, insulated booth. After all, those WhisperRooms are just made from MDF, the same as speaker boxes people put in their cars. In fact, WhisperRoom booths are even covered in the same fabric as the sub woofer enclosures we used to build in high school for our cars.

Back then we'd take the recommended specs for the sub woofer to Home Depot and they'd cut the MDF particle board to the right sizes and shapes for free. Not sure they still do that anymore.

Some liquid nail and screws are all you need once you get the MDF cut to the shapes and sizes you want. The tricky thing is going to be finding the right kind of window and door...and I haven't decided how I want to ventilate it.

And I'm surprised no one uses Dynamat for sound deadening with their booths either. If you're on a budget high-temp mastic for roofing could also be used. You could use non-expanding spray foam, Dynamat, and acoustic foam all together for their different strengths to build a great booth.
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Lee Gordon
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time I checked, Home Depot will give you one cut on a 4x8 sheet for free and charge something like 50 cents for each subsequent cut.*
FYI, if you are joining pieces of MDF with glue and screws, it's best not to use standard wood screws or drywall or deck screws. The fasteners of choice are called a confirmat screws. http://www.rockler.com/confirmat-screws-select-size

When I built my booth, I bought several sheets of 5/8" drywall for the interior, but the only way I could slide a 4' wide sheet through the back door of my van was on the diagonal. And then the wheel wells prevented me from being able to lay them flat. So I grabbed one of this style of cart (minus the plants)

and brought my T-square and utility knife with me, and stood in the parking lot, next to my truck, cutting the sheets to size.

I've also wondered why nobody seems to suggest using Dynamat. They do make architectural products, in addition to their automotive ones. Dynil appears to be just their brand of mass loaded vinyl. But they also make a product for floors called DynaPad.

*If I were going to do this, I would go to Lowe's, rather than Home Depot, only so I would get to hear Connie Terwilliger announce, "Customer assistance needed in the lumber cutting area." cool
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paulstefano
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Lee Gordon"]
DenaliDave wrote:



The little bass traps I'm inquiring about fall under the category of "tweaking" and should be easier to attach.


Lee, have you tried just some smaller rolls of denim insulation? That's all I use in my 4 x 3 booth and they work wonders. I just velcro the rolls to the walls and leave them right in the shrink wrap. Could be an easy cure.
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yarg28
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are my thoughts. Bass control is about mass (for the most part) which results in thickness (for the most part). For example, anything on GIK or other reputable acoustic sites that qualifies something as a "bass trap" is almost always 4" thick or larger, more dense than foam, and they have some more instructions for mounting to achieve anything worthwhile.

Also, if you look at Auralex and assume that they are the most reputable acoustic foam manufacturer, even though most of us would agree that foam is inferior (for the most part) to other acoustic materials, and notice that all of their foam bass traps are larger than those, i think its pretty safe to assume that while those small versions may not be worthless per se, they are probably, most definitely, certainly, probably, not going to do squat for low frequencies.

What I would probably do is record something and look at the wave form as it plays and look for something that is a low frequency that stays up higher than the rest of the frequency. What frequency is dominating/causing the issue? Then look for a solution. If it's in the lower frequency range, 100-250, it could be a very different answer than something in a slightly higher lowish frequency.

Also, consider mic placement. When I first built my booth I had to move my mic to find the best spot. When I had it slightly closer to the ceiling (in a standing position) it was boxier sounding than when I moved it down to a sitting position.

One last thing; Look at your current acoustic strategy. If you are pretty close to happy, then maybe you just need to change what you have slightly. For example, If I was having an issue and I had 2" panels all the way around I may make one set of panels 3" and one 1" to try and catch some of the lower frequencies. Also, if I had foam of any kind i'd immediately replace it with something more dense like ultratouch denim or OC703. My booth is all ultratouch 2" panels except for one wall that is 6". I have no other "trapping" panels. I just made sure that one wall could absorb as much low energy as possible.

Good luck. Taming a small space can really suck.
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yarg28
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DenaliDave wrote:


And I'm surprised no one uses Dynamat for sound deadening with their booths either. If you're on a budget high-temp mastic for roofing could also be used. You could use non-expanding spray foam, Dynamat, and acoustic foam all together for their different strengths to build a great booth.


This falls into the category of over thinking it. To your point, whisperroom has a great product if all you are wanting is isolation and you arent interested in aesthetics and such. Once you get them tuned they will fix the majority of garden variety isolation issues, I built my booth on that premise and I kept it super simple. And here is what I learned and proved:
A. 3/4" mdf is enough
B. Make sure that every joint over laps and that not a single screw passes through to the outside layer.
C. Green Glue acoustical sealant should fill every single crevice both inside and outside.
D. The door seal is the most important part of the process if your joints are sealed properly. Custom door seal is easy and if done correctly greatly diminishes the required quality of the door itself. My door is an $80 hollow core door from lowes and my noise floor is -65.

Unless a person is competing with a very significant issue, there really is no reason to go wild with the build. The good news is that the simple version is also the cheap version.

Bottom line, dont overthink the build. Make it as large as possible, as tight as possible, and mdf is fine.
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DenaliDave
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, 3/4" MDF is what we used to make subwoofer enclosures.

:thumbsup:
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Lee Gordon
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yarg28 wrote:
If you are pretty close to happy, then maybe you just need to change what you have slightly.


This is exactly the case. I'm not getting any complaints from clients. I just feel like I can hear a little hint that I'm recording in a confined space and I want to do what I can to minimize that.
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yarg28
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lee Gordon wrote:

This is exactly the case. I'm not getting any complaints from clients. I just feel like I can hear a little hint that I'm recording in a confined space and I want to do what I can to minimize that.


If it's that close then you may be able to barely touch it with some eq and get what you want.

I was thinking I remember you talking about recording with no booth for a bit. Go back and grab a couple "pre booth" recordings that sound like you want and see if you can dial in something from the booth to sound like it. Again, just looking at a live Frequency Analysis tool and comparing the 2 could show you pretty quickly what frequency has changed and then just attack it with some EQ.






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DenaliDave
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it like a muffled sound, or a slight reverb/echo sound?

I agree...if it's that slight, you might be able to polish it out with some very, very light EQ. Put a itty-bitty boost or decrease in part of the spectrum and see if that helps? Sometimes a light touch with some high-shelf EQ can help that boxy sound...
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