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Experience with QuietRock???
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Rick Riley
Flight Attendant


Joined: 12 Aug 2011
Posts: 807
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ballenberg wrote:
One thing that hasn't been discussed here, or I missed it, is the booth wall assembly. That makes a huge difference. If Rick is using staggered studs, or a two wall with air space assembly, it changes everything in terms of reduction. But I say, leave the MLV where it belongs..in a floor mat in some factory.


I haven't committed to anything which is why I posted here first before doing so. I can watch lots of You Tube stuff and manufacturer's claims, but no one knows better than the people who do what I do and have gone before me with their experience. Up until now, I have been in a bedroom that I converted into an office, on the second floor of my home which sat on five acres and 400 feet back off a little used road. I lined a walk in closet with OC 703 and it worked well. This is a whole different ballgame, and as you can see from the pictures, an idea waiting to happen. But as far as putting money into it, which from all estimates is a considerable sum, I want to make sure the dollars are well spent, which is why I came here first. Which leads me to the quote above.
Quote:
staggered studs, or a two wall with air space assembly... changes everything in terms of reduction.
Don't leave me hanging. Which is better and which should I use?
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ballenberg
Lucky 700


Joined: 10 Nov 2004
Posts: 793
Location: United States

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disclaimer: I'm no expert, but what I have is two independent wall assemblies with about a good inch of space between them, so there is virtually no physical connection between the inside wall and outside wall. I say virtually because both walls do share the door frame, and your builder will understand how to make that happen. What I did, and would not do again now that I know better, was had material on both sides of both walls. I did double sheetrock on outside of outer wall and inside of inner wall.... and on the facing interior parts, we did fiber sound board and MLV..Now I know that adding those inside surfaces actually decreased the performance (awhile raising the cost). Better to just stuff the cavities with insulation and you're good to go. As far as the ceiling, it will depend whether the booth and the rest of the space will share a common ceiling or if they will be separate. The more disconnection from any existing structure you can have, the better. If this is confusing, please PM me and i'll try to explain in my best dumb layman's fashion.
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markjmckenzie



Joined: 04 Jun 2014
Posts: 12
Location: Windsor, Ontario

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend of mine used Quiet Rock and has been very disappointed in it. He helped me build my studio, and now wishes he would have just done Double Dry Wall with GG, as I did. I also added MLV with my studio and it has produced excellent results. If I were to do it again, I would prob scrap the MLV and instead use the Genie Clips with Green Glue. Plus, instead of Denim Insulation I think I would use Stone Wool. The denim and MLV were a huge pain in the ass.

I'd also suggest using a "puddy pad" around your outlets. These things work wonders... I just wish they were cheaper.

I didn't have a huge budget, so my studio isn't perfect.... but the LITTLE floor noise that I do have, is easily eliminated in Adobe.
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Lee Gordon
A Zillion


Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 6855
Location: West Hartford, CT

PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a "belt & suspenders" guy. In my booth I have staggered studs with two layers of Roxul Safe 'n Sound insulation between them, AND mass loaded vinyl (loosely attached) on the outside of the outer wall (just under the exterior sheathing), AND Genie Clips & hat channel furring on the interior walls and ceiling, onto which are attached a layer of ordinary (not low density) 5/8" drywall PLUS Green Glue PLUS a second layer of 5/8" drywall.

OK, that probably makes me a two belts & two pair of suspenders guy. It would be three of each if I had also attached drywall to the outer walls and used two parallel 2x4 top and bottom plates with a gap in between rather than single 2x6 top and bottom plates. But I had to draw the line somewhere. I think the construction methods I used have been quite effective. What tiny bit of outside noise that does get into the booth gets in through the doors (1 3/4" solid core wood doors with a single layer of 5/8" drywall attached on the inside with Green Glue and screws.) and maybe the ventilation ducts.

On top of all the above mentioned stuff, I have also been sure to caulk all the seams where wall studs meet in corners and where plates meet the ceiling joists and the floor with Green Glue Sealant (a different product from Green Glue). By the way, I don't totally agree that Green Glue replaces mass loaded vinyl. MLV is a modern replacement for the sheet lead that used to be used to line the walls, floors, and ceilings of studios. It's purpose is to add mass to the enclosure, in order to absorb as much vibration as possible. Green Glue and the polymer layer in the middle of Quietrock perform a similar, but not identical function.

I believe anything worth doing is worth overdoing, so the more things you have the space and the money to do, the better.
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Jen Gosnell
A Hundred Dozen


Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 1290
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dang, this is an awesome thread. Rick, I can't wait to visit your bomb shelter -- I mean, booth -- when it's done! Wink
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steveanthony
Been Here Awhile


Joined: 30 Aug 2006
Posts: 247
Location: Western Massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 4:45 am    Post subject: Wall placement Reply with quote

Looking at the blueprint, something to consider in the design of the booth is to angle out the right wall a bit so that no walls are parallel to each other. Slanting the ceiling so that it's not parallel to the floor is a an additional option.
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