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Sound Booth

 
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cyclometh
King's Row


Joined: 06 Aug 2010
Posts: 1051
Location: Olympia, WA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:58 pm    Post subject: Sound Booth Reply with quote

I'm in the process of trying to make some plans for my next steps with my home studio. For background, I have a fairly small basement room that is an office as well as my recording space. Dimensions are approximately 12'x12'x8', and the room is essentially cubical.

I had considered treating the room, but that would be not only expensive, but possibly impractical.

So I'm looking at making a booth- I could easily build a booth about 4'x6' with a door, and treat *that* to be a great recording environment. The booth wouldn't be a permanent fixture, but a standalone affair that could be disassembled if it became necessary to remove it.

What are some practical means to soundproof such an assembly to eliminate external noise as much as practical? Assuming the external walls of the booth are about 3" thick, I have a few options, including filling the space with rock wool or rigid acoustic insulation panels.

Thoughts? I'm not worrying about the interior treatment just yet, just trying to get a handle on how the box would best be assembled.
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Mike Sommer
A Hundred Dozen


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 1222
Location: Boss Angeles

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it is a cube, but why would it be impractical to treat?

Whatever you build it may not be that effective, especially if you're not a details oriented craftsman that has never built a booth before. Plus you'll still need to treat the inside, so by the time you're said and done you'll end up with a 3x5 room and even less room in the office.

You could go the Whisper Room route, base price $4000, plus shipping. Plus treatment, and quiet ventilation.

If I remember correctly you've gotten your noise floor pretty low. It maybe just a matter of sealing the room and adding another layer of drywall to the room.

For a your size room you'll need about 17 sheets of drywall (about $170) drywall screws mud and tape (another $75). Some handy friends with screw guns and a good day (cost: about two cases of beer and lunch) (Or a crew at about $1200).
Change out the door to a prehung 1 hour fire door, about $450, plus labor to install it (about $250- $350).
Plus some odds and ends you could be in the $2950 zone. ~That's if you even need to add another layer.

If you build the rooms acoustical treatment yourself, material could cost you around $2700 (this would be with Guilford of Maine fr701 fabric).

So you really need to evaluate your room, and crunch the numbers.
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Acoustics are counter-intuitive. If one thing is certain about acoustics, it is that if anything seems obvious it is probably wrong.
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ballenberg
Lucky 700


Joined: 10 Nov 2004
Posts: 793
Location: United States

PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So Mike, thinking of possible future needs, if the room is essentially quiet, adding a layer of drywall and a solid door can bring it a lot closer--one layer is enough? So there's no need for those resilient channel clips? What about Green Glue? Putting that between the exisitng drywall and the new drywall would help even more, is that correct?

As far as the whisper room and silent ventilation, ie ventilation that can actually be running while recording, what do you use? Is there a good way to run AC into a Whisperoom? And/or fresh air?

Thanks
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Mike Sommer
A Hundred Dozen


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 1222
Location: Boss Angeles

PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ballenberg wrote:
... if the room is essentially quiet, adding a layer of drywall and a solid door can bring it a lot closer--one layer is enough?

If it's quiet, it's quiet-- what more do you want?

One needs to sit and listen to the room, and record it. What noises do you hear?
Turn everything on in the house that makes noise, TV, Hi Fi, washing machine, dryer, dishwasher, heater/AC, everything and listen.

The turn on the water: Bathtubs, showers, flush the toilets, run the sprinklers and listen.

If there is a floor above, have someone walk around. Can you hear anything? Can the room or area above be shut off when you're recording if you hear noise?

Once you've run all these test, you'll know what your worst case scenario is. Then you can review the recordings and see where the noise level are at on everything. If it is just you and the wife, and the house is quiet 80% of the time, you should be ok. It could amount to just a few modifications, or full-tilt-boogie construction.

Quote:
So there's no need for those resilient channel clips?

Indeed, decoupling is always the best way to go. Even better yet is building a room in a room. But you must know what level of isolation you need from out side noise. With existing wood frame walls, installing RC1 or RC2 will provide excellent isolation along with 2 or more layers of drywall.

Quote:
What about Green Glue? Putting that between the exisitng drywall and the new drywall would help even more, is that correct?

I go back a forth with Green Glue. Some folks say it works really well. But how do we know that they would have achieved the same amount of isolation without Green Glue? That's always been the big question.

For example we know we can get 6-dB of noise reduction with every layer of 5/8" drywall.

The big word around town is that using GG is equal to 4 layers of drywall. So that would be roughly 24-dB of reduction. Considering the cost of the GG vs the cost of the material and labor of installing drywall. I would say use it. But it's still a crapshoot there is something that always pops up. For example I found an "Acoustical Hole" ( a point where a specific frequency comes through) in Cashman's booth. Fortunately it's from a tile saw, and it was a very high frequency-- so Marc and I are not losing any sleep over it.

(Note: Green Glue needs to fully cure to attain its full effectiveness, this takes at least 6 months)


Quote:
As far as the whisper room and silent ventilation, ie ventilation that can actually be running while recording, what do you use? Is there a good way to run AC into a Whisperoom? And/or fresh air?

I don't use Whisper Rooms, they are just expensive plywood boxes.

I've seen some rather ridiculous set ups, just to get air into a Whisper Room. Cool air is another matter. You need and ultra quite cooling system, and a large isolated duct, so that you don't carry residual ambient noise into the booth. Then a low velocity fan so that you don't get wind noise. This is a tall order for such a small sweat box.

This is way I say use a large room. This way you can use a quality and quiet air system like the Mitsubishi Mr Slim split duct AC/Heater unit.
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Acoustics are counter-intuitive. If one thing is certain about acoustics, it is that if anything seems obvious it is probably wrong.
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Dan-O
The Gates of Troy


Joined: 17 Jan 2005
Posts: 1638

PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...

Last edited by Dan-O on Fri Oct 18, 2013 9:00 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ballenberg
Lucky 700


Joined: 10 Nov 2004
Posts: 793
Location: United States

PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good idea Dan--

And thanks Mike.
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Mike Sommer
A Hundred Dozen


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 1222
Location: Boss Angeles

PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan-O wrote:
Mike, I don't know how you do it, but, you did it, again. Yesterday, I started shopping for a quiet air conditioner for my studio. The room has one duct, is separated from the rest of the house and above the garage; so, it doesn't get the "respect" it should. The temps in here are 100+ some days.


The Mr Slim is a great unit. All you need is 220 to the outside unit, and it's a go. The unit can be installed and running in a day.

At it's low "cooling" setting, it's about 10 db, at the inside unit head. What's even more amazing is that the outside heat exchanger is almost as quiet. It is a fantastic unit. When in heat mode, you cant even tell it's on.

The unit cost under $2000 and installation is about another $1000 (LA Price)

My advice when installing the inside blower head, place it as far away from your recording area as possible. Not that it makes a hell of a lot of noise anyway.

It it is the quietest unit, of this sort, that I know of.


You know folks if you need to information or advice or just a little lonely, PM or call me:
1- 818 - 325-9769 (that's the direct mike-line)
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The Blog:
http://voiceoveraudio.blogspot.com/

Acoustics are counter-intuitive. If one thing is certain about acoustics, it is that if anything seems obvious it is probably wrong.
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Dayo
Cinquecento


Joined: 10 Jan 2008
Posts: 544
Location: UK

PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From my limited experience I would always go for the largest space you can muster to record in.
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