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VO Booth Progress (con't -- Walls)
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Lee Gordon
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Joined: 25 Jul 2008
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Location: West Hartford, CT

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 4:05 pm    Post subject: VO Booth Progress (con't -- Walls) Reply with quote

Last time, I posted pictures of the floor platform construction. Here are the walls.


This is the back wall. The top and bottom plates are 2x6, with 2x3 and 2x4 studs forming outer and inner walls. In this view, the outside is face down and the inside is face up.


Here's the same wall (same orientation as last picture) with the interior studs and second top plate added.


Now the frame has been flipped upside down so the outer wall is face up, and mass loaded vinyl has been applied, just as it was on the floor platform.


Then, the plywood sheathing goes on top of the mass loaded vinyl, after which, it will be painted and decorated before being mated with the floor. (Once it's up, it will be virtually inaccessible.


Here are the floor platform and back wall in place. I managed to drag the floor into place by myself and then realized there were a few tasks I couldn't manage on my own, so I brought in a friend for three days (and around $600) to help build the side walls, horse the walls into place, install the door, and build the roof.


Here's the back wall with one of the side walls up. As you can see, the two holes in the back wall were for ventilation. The ductwork has been mounted and braced with some extra horizontal framing.


These are the pieces that make up each vent. The square part is 8" on a side with a 6" round port in the back. It's coupled with a 6" to 4" reducer and just the 4" diameter part sticks out the hole in the back wall and is then mated with 4" insulated flexible duct, which will then connect to a couple of boxes with baffles inside (to be built with plans generously supplied to me by Dan Lenard).


Here, the back and both side walls are in place.


And here is my custom door in place. Each door is 1¾" thick solid wood, mounted on heavy-duty ball bearing hinges, with heavy duty weatherstripping. From there, the vestigial bottom plate pieces were added to the front, the top plates were doubled all the way around, a couple of studs were added to each side of the front wall, which was then sheathed in plywood, and roof rafters were installed with mass loaded vinyl above them and plywood over that.
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todd ellis
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome! movin' & groovin'!
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SkinnyJohnny
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lookin' good!
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Mushmelon
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impressive...I am excited for you...and a bit jealous!
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georgethetech
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that dbl wide door for wheelchair access? Just curious why you went that route. Also, it looks like the outer and inner studs are touching. Is that an illusion? Great job documenting this monumental project!
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Lee Gordon
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The double door serves three purposes. One is purely esthetic, as you will see once I get around to posting the pictures of the finished booth. The second is, rather than carrying the weight of a full width door on three hinges, I have six, three on each side, which may not be important unless I decide I need to add more mass to the doors by attaching drywall to the inside faces (probably won't have to do that). But the most important reason is, that plaid object is a sofa that sits less than 18" from the door. I would not be able to swing a full width door fully open but with this arrangement, I can open the right side all the way.

The inner and outer studs do not make contact with each other. That's why I used 2x3s except in the corners and a few other places.

By the way, I am documenting the project for two reasons. One is to post the pictures here. But my second reason is, I am hoping to do a session at Faffcon. To that end, I am also saving samples of the various specialty materials I'm using so people will be able to get their hands on mass loaded vinyl, sound-deadening putty, a U-Boat Floor Floater, one of the resilient clips and a piece of hat channel that I'll be hanging the drywall from, and whatever else I can scavenge.
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Ed Fisher
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fascinating stuff.

Can't wait to see more....
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ballenberg
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where will the resilient channel be, and why is it necessary with the staggered studs?
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Donna
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful, Lee - and you'll even be able to breathe!
I second that question about resilient channel. I opted not to use it because it seemed like overkill, and every millimeter counts in the small space, and my booth is dead quiet.
Bottom line - you are going to love it!!
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Lee Gordon
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is overkill, because I believe in the "belt and suspenders" approach
-- plus a piece of rope.

And another belt. cool
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ballenberg
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't hurt Smile
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graemespicer
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We really appreciate your documenting this project - invaluable stuff!!! Thank you for sharing!
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ballenberg
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lee--So the ventilation system will be fans for both supply and return..or will the return be passive? Also, you'll have flex duct attaching directly to those vents, is that correct? Depending on the ambient noise level in the room, an item to consider is that flexible ducts are essentially acoustically transparent.. Which could mean that those two vents provide open holes into your booth. At least that was my experience.
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Lee Gordon
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a length of insulated flexible duct attached to each of the vents. Those duct lines will each be run to a box that will be constructed with a couple of staggered internal baffles and be lined with some kind of foam like Auralex. The intake with be passive. The exhaust will have a low velocity/high volume fan to suck the air through. By the way, the main reason for the ventilation is not to keep me from suffocating; it's so I don't have to shut down the air conditioning while I record during the hot weather, as I currently need to do.
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Lee Gordon, O.A.V.
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Foog
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This looks great! Seeing a project like this unfold makes me wish my DIY skills weren't limited to accidentally destroying tools and materials, hurting myself, and teaching my kids new swear words.


cheers,
Andrew Fogarasi
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