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Vocal booth construction. How, where to mount 703

 
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forefront



Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Posts: 21
Location: Estacada, OR
PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 8:10 am    Post subject: Vocal booth construction. How, where to mount 703 Reply with quote
Background

I've constructed a vocal booth for my own voiceover work and need some advice on the best way to install the Owens Corning 703 as acoustic paneling as I've read differing opinions (foil facing in/foil facing out, set against wall/set away from wall, etc).

The booth is a 2"x4" stud construction (the floor is 2"x6" stud) free-standing, 5/8" drywall on inside and out, walls are internally insulated with R-19 (floor has a double layer of R-19. The booth stands free of all walls and ceilings and is located on a stone basement floor. We live rurally and there is absolute minimal external noise. The floor is 3/4" plywood with a very thin layer of "contractor" carpet on it. There is one door 2'x6' (made of 2"x4" stud with R-19 insulation, just like the walls except it's 1/2" ply), and one, double-paned window made of polycarbonate, each pane being double-sealed (in and out face) with silicon. There are two openings made from 2 1/4" plastic pipe, one for audio and one for electrical cables. These are sealed with 2" acoustic foam as required.

The booth's external dimensions are 6' x 5' x 7'6"' (length x width x height), The outside drywall will probably not be finished - only I will see it.

The booth's internal dimensions are 5'4" x 4'7" x 6'9" (length x width x height)

I intend to cover the walls, ceiling, door with Owens Corning 703 covered with burlap or some suitable acoustic fabric.

The booth already removes all external noise (heating system, fish tank pump, kids playing, occasional plane flying overhead, etc)

I already own the 2" Owens Corning 703.

Question
1: Should the Owens Corning 703 be mounted directly against the drywall or standing off it?

2: If standing off it, what should the gap be?

3: Should every part of the walls, ceiling and door be covered with the 703 or should I just install a few panels? And if so, how many and how should they be spaced?

4: Best method of attaching the 703? I've read of the (seemingly expensive) Rotofast anchors but also, placing furring strips or 2"x4" along the wall and mounting the 703 to these with drywall screws/washers.


Thank you in advance for your input and advice. (seems I cannot upload pics here or I would add some)
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Mike Sommer
A Hundred Dozen


Joined: 05 May 2008
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Location: Boss Angeles
PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 11:20 am    Post subject: Re: Vocal booth construction. How, where to mount 703 Reply with quote
forefront wrote:
Background

I've constructed a vocal booth for my own voiceover work and need some advice on the best way to install the Owens Corning 703 as acoustic paneling as I've read differing opinions (foil facing in/foil facing out, set against wall/set away from wall, etc).

If the material is going against the wall you can set the foil to the wall.
If you need to build up thickness (making 4-inches from 2-inch material) you need to remove the foil. I say remove the foil anyway. The foil is only really good for corner bass traps where you want to increase the bass absorption rate while not sucking out all the highs in the room.



Quote:
The booth is a 2"x4" stud construction (the floor is 2"x6" stud) free-standing, 5/8" drywall on inside and out, walls are internally insulated with R-19 (floor has a double layer of R-19. The booth stands free of all walls and ceilings and is located on a stone basement floor. We live rurally and there is absolute minimal external noise. The floor is 3/4" plywood with a very thin layer of "contractor" carpet on it. There is one door 2'x6' (made of 2"x4" stud with R-19 insulation, just like the walls except it's 1/2" ply), and one, double-paned window made of polycarbonate, each pane being double-sealed (in and out face) with silicon. There are two openings made from 2 1/4" plastic pipe, one for audio and one for electrical cables. These are sealed with 2" acoustic foam as required.

Lose the polycarbonate unless it is 2" thick. Get a pice of 1/2" or 3/4" laminated glass.

Did you insulate between the floor joist? You might think about putting a layer of drywall on the sub floor and another layer of 3/4 " plywood on top of that.
The room also needs to be airtight, caulk all the seams and joints with Sikaflex 1A.
Add a second layer of drywall to the out side (stager the joints).
I can't imagine the door you built is offering that much isolation. Especially when a tightly fitted solid core door only provides an STC of 30. My recommendation is to install a 20 minute fire rated pre-hung door, with kerf insulation.




Quote:
Question
1: Should the Owens Corning 703 be mounted directly against the drywall or standing off it?
It can be mounted on the wall, but you get better performance with an air gap.

Quote:
2: If standing off it, what should the gap be?
For wall panels the air gap should be equal to the thickness of the insulation: if the material is 2" thick the airgap should be 2", if it's 4" the airgap is 4"

Quote:
3: Should every part of the walls, ceiling and door be covered with the 703 or should I just install a few panels? And if so, how many and how should they be spaced?
Given it's such a small space you'll need 100% coverage on the walls and a cloud on the ceiling above the recording position. Since you wont have much room for corner bass traps you'll need 4" on the wall.

Quote:
4: Best method of attaching the 703? I've read of the (seemingly expensive) Rotofast anchors but also, placing furring strips or 2"x4" along the wall and mounting the 703 to these with drywall screws/washers.

Noting about acoustics is cheap. I use 1x material as you can see here:


In my layout I determined how big the frame sections should be. Because the above room would have a full acoustic ceiling, the frame structure was held away from the ceiling and I could build them outside the booth and bring them in. In your case you'll need build in place.

You do not need to build full frame structures, you simply need a structure to attach the fabric to, and and something to insure the airgap is maintained -that the insulation does not get pushed back. Inexpensive 2x2 or 1x2 firing strips every 16-inches should do the trick, I've even heard of guys making a web of bailing wire to do this too. but make sure nothing rattles.

You might be able to get away without an airgap too or a small airgap. You just need to set up the room and experiment. I've often done well with a 2-inch airgap with 4-inches of treatment.
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Acoustics are counter-intuitive. If one thing is certain about acoustics, it is that if anything seems obvious it is probably wrong.
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forefront



Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Posts: 21
Location: Estacada, OR
PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 12:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Vocal booth construction. How, where to mount 703 Reply with quote
Quote:
Did you insulate between the floor joist?


Yes. Insulated and caulked with silicon.

Quote:
The room also needs to be airtight, caulk all the seams and joints with Sikaflex 1A.


Done.

Quote:
I can't imagine the door you built is offering that much isolation


Surprisngly it does it pretty well. The Door meets the jamb and I put weatherstripping against the jamb. It forms a very right seal.

Quote:
Noting about acoustics is cheap


Noted. My comment was more whether Rotofast anchors are worth their cost or whether there are better solutions, whether that costs more or less than Rotofast.


Quote:
You do not need to build full frame structures, you simply need a structure to attach the fabric to, and and something to insure the airgap is maintained


In your pics, it appears the 703 will go aganst the way due to the raming having no back. How did you prevent the 703 touching the wall?

ALso, from your pics, the corners and walls seems to have a small (1"??) gap between the frames - is that so or did the finished booth have no gaps?

And did you just stretch the fabric across the frames and staple (?) it to the ends?

Thanks!
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Mike Sommer
A Hundred Dozen


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 1222
Location: Boss Angeles
PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 4:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Vocal booth construction. How, where to mount 703 Reply with quote
forefront wrote:


In your pics, it appears the 703 will go aganst the way due to the raming having no back. How did you prevent the 703 touching the wall?

That was an early stage of the build. There are firing strips places along the wall to maintain the airgap.

Quote:
ALso, from your pics, the corners and walls seems to have a small (1"??) gap between the frames - is that so or did the finished booth have no gaps?

As I said this was very early in the build. The corner SuperChunk traps were designed to become tuned Helmholz resonators. What you're seeing is the bottom plate of what became a fully framed, airtight box. If I tell you much more, you will need a security clearance.

Quote:
And did you just stretch the fabric across the frames and staple (?) it to the ends?

Yes.


Here is how it finished out:


You should spend a few moments looking this over:
http://www.vo-bb.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10250
_________________
The Blog:
http://voiceoveraudio.blogspot.com/

Acoustics are counter-intuitive. If one thing is certain about acoustics, it is that if anything seems obvious it is probably wrong.
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Hart
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Joined: 03 Jan 2006
Posts: 2107
Location: Foley, AL
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just to chime in here, Mike helped me with my VO booth build and I am VERY happy with it. We are very lucky to have him around offering very valuable advice for free.

Can't wait to see your final build. Make sure and post picks.
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Brian Hart Productions
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forefront



Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Posts: 21
Location: Estacada, OR
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Absolutely I'll post pics and yes, his help is definitely appreciated.
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forefront



Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Posts: 21
Location: Estacada, OR
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 9:26 am    Post subject: Re: Vocal booth construction. How, where to mount 703 Reply with quote
This is very helpful and I think I worked most things out.

Final question - without security clearance... Wink

...could you clarify how the fabric-finished panels were affixed against the walls?

Are they finished with fabric and then they simply rest loosely on the baton I've marked with a red arrow here (from your original photo):



Or are you completing them and hanging them on some sort of fitting against the wall, or are you screwing them to the wall...in which case how to avoid ripping the covering as they';re being screwed-in? Or are you using some other cool trickery you could hint on?

Thank you
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Mike Sommer
A Hundred Dozen


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 1222
Location: Boss Angeles
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
In this situation, these panels were set in place with the cleat that you are indicating. Everything was a permeant fixture including the ceiling frames.

Once it was all plumbed and squared, the frames were stuffed, and the fabric (Guilford Of Main FR701) was attached.


Below, these panels are individual units and were wrapped and hung with french cleats because the edges and side could be seen:

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The Blog:
http://voiceoveraudio.blogspot.com/

Acoustics are counter-intuitive. If one thing is certain about acoustics, it is that if anything seems obvious it is probably wrong.
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