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Ed Fisher DC

Joined: 05 Sep 2012 Posts: 605 Location: East Coast, U.S.A.
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:29 am Post subject: FIXING WINDOWS*** |
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***If you're here is this thread because your computer is giving you issues...sorry. This is about REAL (look outside at all the little birdies) WINDOWS.
The weak link in my very quiet home recording environment (which is at least partially below ground) is two windows. Both capable of allowing outside noise (trucks passing, lawn mowing, chain sawing) into my otherwise serene place of VO worship.
I'm considering the best way to seal these against the outside. I know that George W has recommended closed cell foam as a solution, although I'm not sure how well it would do against low frequencies. Perhaps the "brain trust" that is here has had to solve this issue in the past? I would be most interested in any "real world" solutions. (or random suggestions)
Merci. _________________ "I reserve the right to be completely wrong." |
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vkuehn DC

Joined: 24 Apr 2013 Posts: 688 Location: Vernon now calls Wisconsin home
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 10:37 am Post subject: |
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I also have a window in my recording space. I could cover it over with whatever materials the rest of you suggest in response to the question by Clutter Ash. But in my case, I would like to include some glass in the "whatever" to let some daylight in. How thick does glass need to be to become something of an adequate sound barrier. We know the broadcast and recording industry studios have windows to isolate sound... usually involving TWO panes of glass.
How thick should I ask for? |
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SkinnyJohnny Backstage Pass

Joined: 12 Aug 2007 Posts: 462 Location: Asheville, NC
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Bruce Boardmeister

Joined: 06 Jun 2005 Posts: 7977 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:31 pm Post subject: |
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I'm lucky in that I'm up against some forest so I have little noise that makes it through my windows here. Occasional low-flying jets on heavy overcast days, and ravens that park right outside my window are a problem. For those I can usually wait. I have heavy velour curtains over the windows to keep most smaller noises out and they work great at cutting down on reflections in the room.
In my previous studio I had two casement windows and on one wall I just built a second stud and drywall wall over everything with lots of fiberglass insulation. For the other window I used a thick piece of styrofoam cut to fit with a layer of softer foam glued to the window side and I covered the exposed side with a nice fabric. It worked for 99% of the noise I encountered.
B _________________ VO-BB Member #31 Enlisted June, 2005
I'm not a Zoo, but over the years I've played one on radio/TV. . |
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George Prince Voice Overs
Joined: 01 Mar 2014 Posts: 6 Location: London, UK
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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I think you've preempted my question, Bruce. I'm considering picking up some velvet curtains and lining them with foam to block out external, window noise. That way I get to enjoy sunshine when the mic's off, and silence when the red light flashes.
Is this a realistic solution? Or am i putting interior design before effective sound exclusion? _________________ Lovely voices from sunny England.
Voicespro profile:
www.voicespro.com/uk/view.php?uid=531070
Tweet me:
@georgesvoices |
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Lee Gordon A Zillion

Joined: 25 Jul 2008 Posts: 6864 Location: West Hartford, CT
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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I think the ideal solution is a window plug -- a wooden frame that fits snugly into the window opening and is filled with some form of sound-resistant insulation (such as Roxul Safe 'n Sound) then covered with the decorative fabric of your choice. You can remove it when you don't need it and stuff it in the opening when you do. I think you pretty much have to choose between the daylight and the silence; you can't have both at the same time. If you were to attempt to make a window plug that you could see through, I think some form of thick, clear plastic of the sort they used to use to make the rear windows of convertables would be a better option than glass, but you still wouldn't be able to back it fully with insulation and be able to get the light through it. _________________ Lee Gordon, O.A.V.
Voice President of the United States
www.leegordonproductions.com
Twitter: @LeeGordonVoice
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Frank F Fat, Old, and Sassy

Joined: 10 Nov 2004 Posts: 4421 Location: Park City, Utah
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:07 pm Post subject: |
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To get what you desire: "...enjoy sunshine when the mic's off, and silence when the red light flashes"... consider Clearsorber DeAmp from RPG: www.rpginc.com/product_Clearsorber_DeAmp.cfm
I have used Clearsorber DeAmp and/or foil for several home and professional studios where major modifications were costly or just not in the cards. It works. Not quite as good as a window "plug" (however there is a lot less hassle between sunlight and red light), and I do recommend Clearsorber.
Frank F _________________ Be thankful for the bad things in life. They opened your eyes to the good things you weren't paying attention to before. email: thevoice@usa.com |
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heyguido MMD

Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Posts: 2507 Location: RDU, the Geek Capitol of the South
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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And this works in an existing residential window? Tell me more.... _________________ Don Brookshire
"Wait.... They wanna PAY me for this?" |
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Frank F Fat, Old, and Sassy

Joined: 10 Nov 2004 Posts: 4421 Location: Park City, Utah
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:25 am Post subject: |
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Simply order the size you require. There are some hardware pieces which are used to attach the Clearsorber DeAmp poly or plex or, for that matter; film.
The real key is having at least 2" of air space between the window and the Clearsorber (and yes;, a bit more is better). One would expect this to become a big resonant chamber such as a drum, but the micro-perforations allow the "air space to capture air and sound coming from BOTH sides and dampen if not eliminate the sound passing through. Thus the clear "glass" becomes an absorber and not a resonator.
Keeping sound from passing through a window involves more than just the obvious fix of plugging the hole. There are so many variables in a residential window casement, it becomes imperative the studio "fixer-upper" person takes the time to seal around the windows, the casement, and other openings which might allow sound to pass.
Make sure ANY, and I mean; ANY way sound can travel into the studio area from outside is observed and dealt with post haste.
So the answer to your question about residential windows is a resounding: YES!
Frank F _________________ Be thankful for the bad things in life. They opened your eyes to the good things you weren't paying attention to before. email: thevoice@usa.com |
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George Prince Voice Overs
Joined: 01 Mar 2014 Posts: 6 Location: London, UK
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 2:23 am Post subject: |
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Great tips, chaps. Thank you. _________________ Lovely voices from sunny England.
Voicespro profile:
www.voicespro.com/uk/view.php?uid=531070
Tweet me:
@georgesvoices |
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Pam The Thirteenth Floor

Joined: 21 Jul 2006 Posts: 1311 Location: Chicago, Il
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 8:35 am Post subject: |
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Great idea Frank! And since they are at this moment, putting security fences around the building across the street to start tearing it down, a very timely tip. I too don't want to lose my link to the outside world so this might do the trick. _________________ Pam Tierney
www.pamtierneyvo.com
imdb profile http://imdb.com/name/nm1941932/
Now what did I come in here for? |
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D Voice Been Here Awhile

Joined: 26 Jun 2010 Posts: 232
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 9:33 am Post subject: sliding glass doors |
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excuse me for asking here, but I thought this seemed to be an appropriate thread:
In my case the problem is the sliding glass door to the outside in my (rented) apartment in the room where I usually record. Specifically on windy days when the windows and latch rattle a bit, and seals squeak. Any tips, suggestions or products that would be useful? |
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Ed Fisher DC

Joined: 05 Sep 2012 Posts: 605 Location: East Coast, U.S.A.
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 12:10 am Post subject: |
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Lee Gordon wrote: | I think the ideal solution is a window plug -- a wooden frame that fits snugly into the window opening and is filled with some form of sound-resistant insulation (such as Roxul Safe 'n Sound) then covered with the decorative fabric of your choice. You can remove it when you don't need it and stuff it in the opening when you do. |
Lee, are you thinking of making the window plug similiar to a thick sound panel with no hard surface on either side? I'm thinking it would be nice to have it absorbing or deadening sound on the inside, then a better outside sound shield if the outer wall is solid. Of course, around the outside will have to be sealed air-tight. I'd be interested in your thoughts. _________________ "I reserve the right to be completely wrong." |
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chrisvoco Club 300

Joined: 14 Mar 2014 Posts: 380 Location: Local
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 1:07 am Post subject: |
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Quite frankly, I'm jealous of you people who have the window problem: I'm in a basement, nicely acoustically treated, but with *no natural light*.
You are lucky to have the window problem in the first place.  _________________ Finally, Ford stops starting to say things and starts. |
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DeadDillo Contributore Level V

Joined: 23 Mar 2014 Posts: 196 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 3:59 am Post subject: |
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I like the window plug idea as well, but my first thought was to replace the window with double (or even triple) pane glass. The window systems I have in my house have two panes of glass and are filled with argon (I believe) to help with heat retention. But this would also definitely help with sound deadening.
Doing double-pane glass with a plug would be pretty perfect. _________________ www.MarleyAudio.com |
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